Sun 2nd Aug – Land of the Faroes

KOLLAFJORDUR AND TORSHAVN – FAROE ISLANDS – Sunday 2nd August 2015

A misty day, we can see mountains all around us, sadly not the peaks, but at least we are berthed against a proper quay, so can just walk ashore. Only one snag, Kollafjordur is a small village with no facilities, shops, hotels, etc, just an old fishing factory and a few houses.  The main town, Torshavn, is 14km away, in the next Fjord, a 25 minute bus ride! So everyone packs into a shuttle bus and away we go.  We are only berthed here for five hours so what a strange place to drop anchor.

20150802_113927_Pano

Torshavn is a lovely little town, georgeous harbour surrounded by very old houses with grass roofs. It will not take too long to explore so Paul and Liz take a hike up the hill to a park spotted on the town map. The park is full of interesting sculptures, including a stained glass man on horseback slaying a dragon.  Sam and Dave strike out for the other side of the harbour which would give a panoramic view of the old town. Kath and myself explore the harbour and surroundings.

Tony and Kath in Torshavn
Tony and Kath in Torshavn

Not many shops open, in fact none at all. Cafes and restaurants also closed. In fact the town is closed – it is Sunday morning! We spot a building saying hotel so enter the lobby, turns out it is a shoe shop being refitted – no coffee here, although the workmen have a chat and offer to make us a cup.

So after a couple of hours of exploring without spending a single danish krona we head back to our shuttle bus and enjoy the scenery as we are transported around the Fjord and back to the boat.  A beautiful area, but why bring 500 people here when everything is in closed mode?  Why are we berthed so far away from the main town, when Torshavn has a perfectly good harbour?

Usual great evening meal, we include some nice Portuguese Red wine, having sampled it at the captains table two days ago. Just imbibing this when Paul shouts “Whale” and points to the portholes. Everyone rushes to the window portholes and there out at sea, a long way away, the shape of a whale is clearly visible spouting water, then it upends showing us his iconic tail as he dives for cover. Who would have thought such a view so far away would cause such great excitement. I think we were lucky the boat did not turn on its side.

Liz was beginning to feel the effects of a rolling sea. Inna immediately jumped to the wrong conclusion and started a rumour that Liz was pregnant.  Kath is now paranoid about the staff calling her “Granmama”.  Once the confusion had been cleared up, Inna was very kind and dashed off, returning with a stick of ginger.  “I have killed the decoration!” she declared as she presented it to Liz.  It turns out that one of the buffet table decorations was made out of ginger and Inna had snapped a piece off.  She instructed Liz how to use it. Whatever the way, it did the trick.

Since we all get younger tonight, as the clocks have to be set back one hour, we once again put in an appearance at the disco. Not quite last to leave but we used up our extra hour valiantly.

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Sat 1st Aug – Hebridean Despair

WILL WE WONT WE THE HEBRIDEAN WAY

Looks like Stornoway
Looks like Stornoway

Early start today, breakfast at seven so we can get onto dry land as soon as possible. The ship anchors off Stornoway and prepares to start taking passengers ashore by lifeboat.  We congregate in the theatre and await our turn to be ferried ashore. Sadly we wait and wait, apparently the sea swell is too high making it unsafe to descend into the tender boat, we just have to be patient and wait until the sea calms down! A famous king once tried this trick of controlling the sea – then, unsurprisingly, comes the announcement – “reluctantly we are abandoning the trip to Stornoway for reasons of passenger safety and we shall now have a leisurely day at sea”.

From passenger safety perspective, absolutely the right decision, but, it is quite a nice day, I would imagine better than most days in this part of the world, so taking passengers ashore is a predictable problem or it very rarely happens. A few enquires confirms our suspicions, what a poor piece of itinerary planning by CMV.

Hebrides
Is that the Hebrides ?
It's Friday, so that must be the Hebrides
It’s Friday, so that must be the Hebrides

So a leisurely day it is, bird watching from the upper decks – lots of Puffins, Gulls, Fulmars, etc.  We attend an interesting lecture on the geology of Iceland with stunning pictures of waterfalls, mountains and volcanic landscapes.

The swimming pool looks interesting, a member of the crew has swept it, I wonder whether they were going to fill it, they have to be 12 miles from land before they can fill it with sea water.  Few enquiries does not find the answer, someone said there was a leak in the pool so would not be filled, another crew member said it never gets filled.  Not sure whether I would go in, but do have swimming trunks with me (no, not speedos!).

Usual excellent food and then onto the show bar where there is a performance of Russian based songs, although very good it was a very short show of less than 30 minutes. Only one thing left for it – that disco lounge (again!) with Kath leading the way. This time we were last out, but Paul and Liz took a stroll around the upper deck and discovered a bird they had never seen before – a Turnstone – obviously cadging a lift. We discovered later that another bird watcher fed the bird some breakfast. Birds are not daft! – gets a free lift and some breakfast as part of his migratory flight.

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