Thu 6th Aug – The Amazing Planet Earth

Planet Earth is fascinating – Reykjavik, Thursday 6th August

The clocks go forward tonight so we must get an early night. Today the weather is glorious and we can see snow capped peaks surrounding our fjord, shimmering under a blue sky. This is Iceland in summer. Our first view of Reykjavik is of a modern clean city in stunning surroundings.

Reykjavic
Reykjavic

It is going to be a long day, we are booked on the famous excursion – The Golden Circle. Liz and Paul enjoyed this tour on a previous visit to Reykjavik, so they spend the day exploring the city and visiting museums they did not see last time, including the Saga Museum and the new Whale Museum. The Whale Museum has life sized models of all the whales commonly seen in Icelandic waters, so it’s good to get a look at just how big the Humpback whales were that we saw on the whale watching trip. The flipper alone was bigger than Liz!

Our coach is full as we set off to Thingvellir a place of great historic importance – the first Icelandic Parliament met here in the tenth century and now the area is even more significant since it sits on a major fault line. The fault line is where the European and American tectonic plates are moving apart creating a rift valley, widening by about 6cm every year. Underneath is an active volcano, so one day, strong geological action here will have serious consequences for Iceland.

Eurasian and North American geological boundary
Eurasian and North American geological boundary

The rift valley created by the moving plates is awesome and as you walk along it there is a frightening feeling of what will happen to this place when the volcano spills its lava along this ridge. This rift stretches across Iceland but is most prominent here. At places you can walk along the ‘bottom’ of the ridge, but in others the rift narrows and drops 40m downwards into the darkness of the earths abyss. What would it be like to climb down there? How hot would it be near the bottom? The earth’s secrets are down there, what do they hold for us?

As we continue our coach journey the landscape for miles around is solidified lava. This ‘moonscape’ is eerie yet spectacular, some people are building on it – you may get free geothermal power but living on top of an active volcano ……. !

Our coach eventually delivers us to the Gullfoss Waterfall, it seems most of Iceland’s population is here too!  The place is packed, this is an area to visit at sunrise or sunset.  Yet despite the crowds, the first view of Gullfoss is simply stunning.

Gulfoss
Gulfoss

One upper waterfall crashes water onto a lower triangular fall. The noise, the spray, the sheer power of tumbling, rushing, water is exciting. We really need far more time to enjoy this place, but we are only allowed 30 minutes before we rush back to the coach.

Gullfoss waterfall
Gullfoss waterfall

Only a short journey brings us to Geysir, one of the iconic sights of Iceland. You can see people in the distance standing in a large circle, what are they doing? Then suddenly, it erupts, a plume of scalding water shooting high into the air, even from a distance it is impressive and we become impatient to walk up there and join the circle, we do not want to miss the next eruption. This is Strokkur a regularly erupting geyser.

Our guide is very clear with her instructions – ‘always make sure the wind is on your back’. We join the circle and now realise it is only half a circle except for a few brave souls opposite who must be thinking they have the best view. We stand with cameras at the ready, when will it spout again? We are told every six minutes but dare not look at our watches in case we miss it. The water rumbles around in the pond, looking like it is disappearing down a central hole, then ‘whoosh’, up it goes, a plume of hot water 30m into the air. The pond has disappeared leaving a gigantic muddy plug hole, then the water crashes down, fills the pond and the plughole disappears from view. Wow! Can’t wait for the next one.

There she blows
There she blows

Oh dear, across the circle, someone did not know about the ‘wind on back trick’ and stands there camera and person covered in warm liquid.

Once again, time is against us and we have to rush off for lunch. Lovely little restaurant and we all cram into the dining area, ten to a table. Two metal frames are placed on table, followed by two tureens of soup which look precariously balanced on these frames. A chap volunteers to be ‘mother’ and starts to ladle out the soup into bowls and passes them round, suddenly (and I suppose predictably) the tureen spins over, spilling hot soup all over the middle of the table. The staff do not seem bothered and just leave us to it! Thank goodness a lady steps into the breech and plays ‘mother’ to perfection with the other tureen. So we enjoyed our soup, all sat round a pond of the stuff on the table.

Second course was salmon, salad and a potato mixture, which again was balanced on the metal frames ready for us to serve ourselves. We would not let the previous fellow touch it and once again our lady performed the task to perfection. As we finished, one of the staff came along with towels to mop up the soup pond. Despite the mishap, the food was excellent and finished with one profiterole each.

Driving back through lunar landscapes and wonderful snow capped mountains, I noticed there were illuminated information boards at strategic points – these were Information Boards telling walkers about the wind speed, temperatures on top of mountains, plus remarkably, video cameras so walkers could tell whether anyone else was on the mountain.

We stop for ice cream. These cones are quite famous – you purchase a cone of whippy ice cream, then the assistant dips the cone upside down into molten chocolate which then solidifies over the ice cream. An interesting snack!

Last stop is Reykjavik – at the Pearl. This is an interesting vantage point – four massive storage tanks containing hot water have been topped with a glass domed building, accessible by elevator providing a café, shop and wonderful vantage point over the City.

The coach gives us a quick tour of the City – City Hall, National Gallery, Harp Conference centre, Hofdi House (Gorbachev and Reagan held a summit meeting there), one of the roads is painted like a rainbow because there is going to be a Gay Pride event soon. Then we reach the ship, just in time, the end of a long spectacular excursion.

20150806_100622

Another wonderful meal, followed by a great show focussing on the Musicals, I thought it spectacular, especially, Kerris, the lead singer who really excelled in a performance from Chicago. Sometimes, I worry our neighbouring tables will not be able to hear the singers because of the attempted melodies coming from our table, but they appear to take it in good part. Daniel, the Entertainment Manager suggests that some of the audience are trying to get a job as singers on the next cruise – I can’t think who he means, but Paul and Sam appear to have enjoyed themselves.

Of course, the Disco beckoned us, have we become addicts to the disco beat? we are drawn to it like moths to the light. Some of the entertainment team also attend tonight.  Kerri has a bubbly personality and hails from Tarleton (10 miles from Southport) and Daniel comes from Huyton where I used to work.

We know the clocks will be moving forward, yet we are still on the floor in the early hours. This new addiction has dumbed down all our common sense.

Press any image to start a slideshow:

Wed 5th Aug – Isafjordur Serendipidy

ISAFJORDUR  – Wed 5th Aug – 0900 to 1800

We have no excursions booked, the one we wanted was fully booked weeks ago, so it is a ‘Do It Yourself’ day. Isafjordur is situated between dramatic mountains but as usual we cannot see the tops because of the mist.  Our research indicates not much to do, it is a very small town and exploration will not take too long.

Isafjordur
Isafjordur

We all decide on different things. Kath decides on a walk around town then just have a leisurely day back on board. Sam and Dave decide on town and food exploration. The Information Kiosk provide details of some good walks which interests the rest of us. At the end of the Fjord is an interesting track up the mountain to a man made ridge constructed as an avalanche protection with a tunnel running through and further up the mountain an abandoned white building, making an 8km walk there and back.

Mountain Avalanche Defences
Mountain Avalanche Defences

Interestingly a large building in town was being repaired and surrounded by scaffolding, surprisingly, the scaffolding was all wooden posts and planks nailed together – I have never seen this before.

Wooden scaffolding
Wooden scaffolding

I wandered around town then hit the trail up the mountain. It was steeper than anticipated but rewarded by great views over the harbour and town. Met several icelandic walkers who implied this is one of the most popular walks and leads further into the mountains where waterfalls and other mountain peaks are in abundance. I made the tunnel in good time and on looking back spotted Liz and Paul coming up the trail. I clambered onto the Ridge to wait for them since they were sensible walkers and would probably have some chocolate and sugar drinks, as I stupidly had nothing! After a brief chat, they decide to go onto the White House but I decided to walk down the Ridge –this was tougher than expected since I was now completely exposed to a chilling northern wind.

Ridge forming part of avalanche defences
Ridge forming part of avalanche defences

Once back in town I visited a local pub/restaurant, popular with walkers, the beer was good (Viking Classic brewed in Akureri) and the sandwich came on one inch thick bread, plus salad and wedge chips. Liz and Paul eventually joined me which was good news since they paid the bill. Incidentally the White house turned out to be an abandoned cafe.  The pub was stifling hot and I opened the windows, seems the pub is heated by free geothermal energy and is always at 24 degrees.

With our wedding anniversary coming up and also Kaths birthday, I was planning on buying two really nice cards reflecting an Icelandic flavour. This was a bad strategy as such things do not appear to exist, and I was forced to buy two not very impressive generic cards – I could be in deep trouble, later this week!

On the way back to the ship, there were a colony of Arctic Terns nesting on the shore, interesting to watch, challenging to go near as they attack you.  Paul also spotted a colony of Purple Sandpipers sharing the shore with the Terns – they were difficult to spot as the Terns prevented us getting anywhere near.

Back on board ship, we are bemused by several people we have not spoken to before  asking if Kath enjoyed leading the Conga last night and others asking Liz if she is feeling better.  How do all these people know what we have been up to?  It appears they have all been talking to Sam and Dave!  Those two know how to work a room and network, the whole ship appear to be following our exploits.  Apparently Kath and myself are known as the golden couple!

The Restaurant had a strange atmosphere tonight, there were no staff, tables set as usual but dim lighting and nobody around.  Just as the restaurant filled, jolly roger music filled the air, the room lit up and all the staff came marching in dressed as pirates.  Lots of ‘argh argh’ and ‘pieces of eight’ and cutlasses waving.  The menu had mouth watering items such as ‘Rich Pickings’, ‘Seaweeds and Stuff’, ‘From the Treasure Chest’, etc.  It was all great fun.  Shame they did not tell us in advance, we would have dressed up as well!

After the usual excellent meal, we decided tonight would only be a token appearance at the disco – token still meant a 1am finish! As the ship bumped along the waves and the weather is set to get worse overnight, I think, the announcements made over the ships intercom leave a lot to be desired as you can hardly hear the announcements when in your cabin.

Press any image to start slideshow:

Tue 4th Aug – Rocking and Rolling with Whales

Waterfalls and Whales – Akureyri and Husavik – Tuesday 4th August

We are now in north east Iceland having sailed just briefly over the Arctic Circle line in the night and once again the Icelandic mist is keeping the charms and views of this wonderful country hidden from us. Despite the cold, we board the coach in high spirits and head for Godafoss waterfall. Irwin our guide for the day entertains us with interesting insights into Icelandic life – widespread belief in trolls and elves, use of geothermal energy for heating, Christmas customs, preservation of Icelandic language.

Godafoss waterfall is spectacular even when viewed from a safe distance. For the more foolhardy (ie me, Paul and many others) we step on submerged rocks to cross a fast flowing stream, then clamber over wet and slippy boulders to get to the edge of precipices – just to experience the spray and noise of the spectacular downfall!  Obviously the Health and Safety police have not visited this place yet.

Godafoss - waterfall of the Gods
Godafoss – waterfall of the Gods

We spy one of the ship dancers from the entertainments team picking his way across the rocks.  We all shout at him to be careful and stand ready to catch him in case he slips – what will we do in the evenings if the dance show is cancelled because of injury?

Sam, Kath, Dave, Paul at Godafoss
Sam, Kath, Dave, Paul at Godafoss

After an excellent local meal in Husavik, we don substantial rubberised survival suits, followed by bright orange thick plastic coats and board a very old restored wooden fishing boat, these days used for Whale Watching trips.

Ready for the watch
Ready for the watch

We sail into the bay at speed for an hour, the sea is very choppy, water, water, everywhere, they should have provided wellies as well, as the boat is “rocking and a rolling” in the search for whales. We slow down as two Humpback whales are spotted basking in the sea – they are far more at home than we are. As people move around on board to get better views, cameras get as wet as their owners, people press shutters endlessly to record one of the great sights in nature. One of the whales turns over and waves his flippers at us. The boat keeps a very respectful distance as we circle these wonderful creatures of the sea, then with a few more waves of a flipper, they are gone.  These creatures can grow to 18m and weigh up to 40 tonnes, they are awesome.

Fins of Humpback whale
Fins of Humpback whale

Hot chocolate and cinnamon buns are now available to collect on the main deck, provided you can carry them without spilling down your orange coat or worse still your valuable camera, on this see-sawing deck.

I gallantly offer to take a hot drink and bun to a lady who has mobility problems.  I bravely stagger the length of the ship trying not to spill her drink and arrive in front of her at the same time as a crew member who has also brought her refreshments.  Realising we have both completed the same mission, I turn around and stagger off again still clutching the drink and bun.  I am later told, the crew member did the same thing, assuming I had delivered her refreshments.  So the poor lady watched two lots of refreshments arrive and then disappear without being able to taste any!

Back in Husavik, we spend some time in a Whale Museum.  It was inspiring to be so close to the enormous skeletons of various whales but nauseating and sad to look at how these creatures have been (and still are) slaughtered over the years – the equipment used to butcher these creatures is cruel, horrible and barbaric.  Sadly, Iceland is still involved in commercial whaling, despite objections by an ongoing moratorium established by the International Whaling Commission.

On the journey back to the ship, Irwin tells us more about this fascinating country – the dependency of Icelanders on Cod Liver Oil – needed for individual well being when the sun disappears for months on end; use of geo-thermal power to maintain homes at 24C so cheaply, how the widespread belief in Elves and Trolls can effect national planning decisions. There are many abandoned buildings as most people cannot survive this wild environment and a trip of about 300 miles from North to South across the island must be one of the last true adventures, no roads, no bridges, no accommodation, just pure cold wilderness. Would require horses or good off road vehicle to succeed.

Why I allow myself to be taken to the disco yet again, I do not know. We head there again, just for a ‘nightcap’, just to see what is going on, etc. Several drinks later it is party time with Kath leading a Conga and myself being taught the Macarena by Entertainment Manager Daniel – he was very confusing because he kept jumping round the wrong way! Once again we stagger away wondering how can we get up early tomorrow.

Mon 3rd Aug – Welcome to Iceland

SEYDISFJORDUR – WELCOME TO ICELAND – Monday 3rd August 2015

At last we are arriving in Iceland (the south east corner), as midday approaches we are sailing up a narrow fjord with spectacular scenery either side. Well I think spectacular, could not see the tops because of the low cloud and mist. I wonder how the Vikings felt when they first rowed up this fjord in the mist 1000 years ago?

Seydisfjordur Fjord
Seydisfjordur Fjord

Sam and Dave have done the research, not much to do in this small town but there is a walk up the mountain and down the valley passing about 20 waterfalls – called the singing waterfalls walk. So off we go into the mist in our hiking boots. Several other passengers have same idea. We get to an information board – major snag – the walk does not start for another 6km. No problem let us go and get a taxi – further snag – no taxis in this little town!

Road out of town
Road out of town

Ah well, we can see a couple of waterfalls up the mountain, so we can walk up there. It is a good walk and we get our first experience of an Iceland forest. (Iceland was once 25% forested but was all destroyed as the country developed. Now they are re-planting). The forest was sparsely populated, no tree more than 6ft high, the urban myth being if you get lost in a forest, just jump up and to find out where you are!

Tony, Liz, Kath, Paul, Sam, Dave
Tony, Liz, Kath, Paul, Sam, Dave

 

Part way along the walk, we hear a loud neighing and some shouting followed by hoofbeats on the road in the valley.  We spy a run-away horse complete with saddle but minus rider.  Fellow walkers inform us the horse has just thrown his rider but since Icelandic horses are very short and stubby we assume the rider is not hurt.  We later see another rider galloping down the road to recover the horse who by now has met a herd of horses in a field and stopped for a chat, so was easily caught.

El grille - Real ale pub
El grille – Real ale pub

Back in town, we find the one and only pub – excellent, serving many interesting bottles and a local brew on draught (made in Reykjavik but to a Seydisfjordur recipe). It was nice to drink ‘beer with attitude’ compared to the ships offering. What a surprise, the pub was half filled with ships passengers, one of whom was having trouble with his cameraphone – no problem, Paul soon had him sorted. Outside, a local hotel advertising free high speed wifi was surrounded by about twenty of the ships crew tapping into the system with their ipads, phones, laptops, etc. (The system on board the ship was very slow and costs 60p per minute).

Blue Church
Blue Church

A last walk up the one and only street, we visit a beautiful local church painted blue, inside the atmosphere was overwhelmingly peaceful and calm.  During the Summer, concerts are held in this church – looking at the gleaming church organ, I can only imagine how wonderful it would sound.

Near the church is an unusual monument of twisted girders designed to remember the last serious avalanche here which flattened a local factory.  Kath and Liz were now in a hurry to spend their Krona, so buy Icelandic hats in a local shop and I fall into conversation with four young people about 12/13 years of age. Their use of the English language is just excellent and they explain they have just painted the church blue in honour of my football team! How ashamed we brits should be, I could not share a joke with anyone in their native tongue. Then they tell me their English is so good because they have excellent teachers – I cannot remember the last time young people made that kind of statement to me!

We now head for the Supermarket to buy snacks for our cabin (I do miss my plain crisps!) – another surprise it is closed! Nothing else for it – back to the pub!  As the mist rolls in, we could hardly see the ship from the bar, but we could read the labels on the beer bottles.  Paul found a lovely bottled beer – Myr Kvi – meaning “darkness” in Icelandic.  A veeery smooth tasting Porter, he even took a photo of it!

It is an Italian evening on board with the restaurant staff suitably bedecked in red, green and white.  Of course we sing Volare with Inna. She looks after us very well, very good at her job, yet pleased to share a joke with us.

Once again, the disco calls. I have been to more discos in the last few days than I have in the last few years! Not sure I can keep this pace up as I once again stagger back to the cabin in the early hours.

Press on any image to see slideshow: